On my first trip to Alaska to climb Denali in 2010 we had been pinned down at high camp for six days without a single chance to move on the summit. My guides decided that we would have to turn around and walk climb back down the mountain without summiting. That was a very bitter disappointment for me and I made the decision to go back to Alaska and make another attempt on it. I chose to fly there rather than drive as I had done on my first attempt. For this climb I was extremely lucky to have world renowned mountain guide Vernan Tejas as lead guide for the expedition. It was like playing golf with Tiger woods as your partner. We made our way slowly up the mountain and when we arrived at high camp the weather was once again not entirely favourable for an attempt on the summit. None the less, Vernan decided that there were three things that, present together, would prevent us from making our bid to the summit. One was excessive wind. The second was excessive snow. The third was excessive ice conditions. Two of the three preventive factors were present, the wind and the snow were indeed strong near the summit area of the mountain, but the third condition, ice, was not too severe. Vernan decided that even with the two factors present that we would gear up and take a stab for the top. Our climb resulted in success and we summited on July 28th at about 6:30 p.m. I took my Canon 5D Mark III and 24-105 f/4.0 L lens on the mountain with me. Some of these images are now in the Denali section of the Alpine Ascents web site. You can view them at:
You can click on any image to enlarge it to full screen.
© Steve Tambosso - "The Wandering Fireman"